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When assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. But, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.